Costume: The journal of The Costume Society
The new editorial team for the Society’s journal will be Penelope Byrde Ruddock and Verity
Wilson as joint editors and Naomi Tarrant as reviews editor with Ann Saunders as Editor Emeritus.
The handover will take place over the next few months, ahead of the publication of the 2008
edition which is the last upon which Ann and Maria Hayward will have worked together.
I know that you will join me in welcoming such a talented team. Their complementary expertise
and experience as curators, writers and lecturers ensure a wide network of contacts throughout
the diverse world of dress and textile studies.
Valerie Cumming Chairman
If you are inspired by the articles in
Costume
then why not submit a paper.
Editions of Costume with list of titles
For information on obtaining back issues click here:
Publications
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2008 COSTUME No 42
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Ann Saunders
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Editorial
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Anita Quye and Hugh Cheape
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Rediscovering the Arisaid
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Jane Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya Mikhaila
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And her black satin gown must be new-bodied': The Twenty-First-Century Body in Pursuit
of the Holbein Look
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Johannes Pietsch
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The Burial Clothes of Margaretha Franziska de Lobkowitz, 1617
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Grace Evans
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Marriage a la Mode, An Eighteenth-Century Wedding Dress, Hat and Shoes Set from the Olive
Matthews Collection, Chertsey Museum
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Dawn Chappell
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Sir William Heathcote's Livery
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Alexandra Kajdanska
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Fashionable Life in Eighteenth-Century Gdansk: The Drawings of Daniel Chodowiecki (1726-1801)
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Vesna Marija Potocic Matkovic, Ivo Soljacic and Zlatka Mencl Bajs
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The History of the Dress Code at the University of Zagreb — From Jesuit Talars to Newly Designed
Academic Gowns
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Anna Marie Kirk
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Japonisme and Femininity: A Study of Japanese Dress in British and French Art and Society,
c. 1860-c. 1899
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Samantha Vettese
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The Ballets Russes Connection with Fashion
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Susan North
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John Redfern and Sons, 1847-1892
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Elaine Webster
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New Zealand School Uniforms in the Era of Democracy: 1965 to 1975
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James Snowden and Rebecca Arnold
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New Books and Articles
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Obituary
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Ella Bland
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Back to Index
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2007 Costume No. 41
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Ann Saunders
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Editorial
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Janet Arnold
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The ‘pair of straight bodies’ and ‘a pair of drawers’ dating from 1603 which clothe the effigy
of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey.
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Cliodna Devitt
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‘To cap it all’: The Waterford Cap of Maintenance.
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Jane A. Lawson
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Rainbow for a Reign: The Colours of a Queen’s Wardrobe.
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Nigel Sleigh-Johnson
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The Merchant Taylors Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailors’ Guild or Company of Merchants?.
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Harriet Waterhouse
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A Fashionable Confinement: Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman.
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Lucy-Clare Windle
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‘Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?’: Thomson’s Survival Strategy During
the Decline of the Crinoline.
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Anthea Jarvis
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The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple: Confirmation and First Communion Dress,
1850-2000.
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Nigel Arch
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The Wearing of the Red: The Redcoat and the British Brand.
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Anna Baruma
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‘A Clinging Liberty Tea-Gown Instead of a Magenta Satin’: The Colour Red in Artistic Dress
by Liberty & Co.
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Rebecca Arnold
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Modern Fashions for Modern Women: The Evolution of New York Sportswear in the 1930s.
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Rosemary Harden
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Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place.
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James Snowden & Naomi A.E. Tarrant
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New Books and Articles.
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Obituaries
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Barbara Allen.
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Maureen Allen
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Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder.
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Back to Index
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2006 Costume No. 40
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Ann Saunders
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Editorial
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Susan North
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The Fusion of Fabric and Gem: The Costume Society Symposium 2005.
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Robert Tittler
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Nelson Remembered: Reproductions of Historical Naval Uniform.
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Ann Susan Saunders
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Provision of Apparel for the Poor in London 1630-80.
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Edwina Ehrman
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Dressing Well in Old Age: the Clothing Accounts of Martha Dodson, 1746-1765.
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Heather Toomer
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The de Saumarez Layette with a pattern by Elspeth Reed.
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Deirdre Murphy
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‘The Girls in Green’: Women’s Seaside Dress in England 1850-1900.
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Valerie Cumming
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First Knight: Henry Irving 1838-1905.
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Beverly Lemire
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Wool: Products and Markets from the 13th to 20th Century.
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Judy Tregidden
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The Fashion Gallery, Snibston Discovery Park, Leicestershire.
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James Snowden & Naomi E.A. Tarrant
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New Books and Articles
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Back to Index
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2005 Costume No. 39
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Ann Saunders
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Editorial: 40 Years On
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Madeleine Ginsburg
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The Costume Society: The Early Days
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Stella Mary Newton Edited by Jane Bridgeman
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London Haute Couture in the 1930s
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Anna Ritchie
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Clothing among the Picts
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Jenny Tiramani
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The Sanders Portrait
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Kay Staniland
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Samuel Pepys and his Wardrobe
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Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
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Mourning and La Mode at the Court of Louis XVI
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Suzanne Adams
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Purchasers from the Parsonage: Observations on Bath Dress and Reactive Shopping by the Penrose
Family 1766-1767
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Anne Mary Garry
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‘After they went I worked’: Mrs Larpent and her Needlework, 1790-1780
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Keren Protheroe
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Quality Stitch by Stitch: Clothing and Associated Publications Held in the Marks & Spencer
Company Archive
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Ann Rudge
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Travelling in Style
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Sylvia Ayton
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'A Love-Hate Relationship with Couture’
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Back to Index
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2004 Costume No. 38
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Naomi Tarrant
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An outfit from the Berlin Carousel of 1750 at Paxton House, Bewickshire
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Cicero's new clothes: recreating and investigating dress and dress effects.
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Elaine Webster
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& Fiona Milne
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Susan Mee
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The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
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Robert Smith
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Runners and rituals in early Russia
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Helen Persson
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Straw - the blonde goddess: the adaptation of a folk tradition to fashion
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Deirdre Murphy
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'Stylish yet perfectly modest' : womens bathing dress in England, 1850 -1900
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Kate Strasdin
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'An easy day for a lady...': the dress of early women mountaineers
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Lucy Johnston
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She and ski: the development of women's ski outfits 1880- 1930
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Catherine Horwood
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'Anyone for Tennis?' male dress and decorum on the tennis courts of inter-war Britain
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Anne Brogden
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Paddy's market
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Harry Matthews
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The fashionable image: a celebration of the Harry Mathews Collection of prints and pocket
books in the Museum of London
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Alison Beazley
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Twenty-first century 'made-to-measure'
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Colin McDowell
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The new art?
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Back to Index
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2003 COSTUME No. 37
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Maureen Alden
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Ancient Greek dress
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David Key
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Whythe bendys a-bove hyr harnys: an investigation into the Bend as a part of fifteenth century
military clothing
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Susan Mee
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The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
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Nigel Sleigh-Johnsonh
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Aspects of the tailoring trade in the City of London in the late sixteenth and earlier seventeenth
centuries
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Pat Poppy
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Mary Ring: The clothing of an early American settler
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Kay Staniland
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Samuel Pepys and his wardrobe
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Jenny Lister
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Twenty-three samples of silks: silks worn by Queen Charlotte and the Princesses at Royal Birthday
Balls 1791-1794
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Gillian Lenfestey
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An Alderney wedding, 1779
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Anne Brogden
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Clothing provision by Liverpool's other Poor Law Institutions: Kirkdale Industrial Schools
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Jennifer Queree
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Sails, seals and sailcloth: the clothing of the Dundonald castaways
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Kevin L Seligman
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Dressmakers patterns: the English commercial paper pattern industry, 1878-1950
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Back to Index
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2002 COSTUME No. 36
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Maria Hayward
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The Sign of Some Degree?: the financial, social and sartorial, significance of male headwear
at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI
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Lisa Jefferson
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Gifts given and fees paid to Garter King of Arms at installation ceremonies of the Order of
the Garter in the sixteenth century
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Ian Chipperfield
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Timothy Fellows's roquelaure
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Ann Susan Saunders
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A Bedlam gown
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Anne Brogden
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Clothing provision in the Liverpool Warehouse
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Myrtle Campbell
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Embroidered Bodices: an East Indian connection?
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Leigh Summers
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Yes They Did Wear Them: working class women and corsetry in the nineteenth century
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Aagot Noss
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Norwegian folk-dress as seen by the artists
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Penelope Woolfitt
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Cutting the exotic: a study of some Asian trousers
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Tim Dawson
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A tunic from Eastern Anatolia
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Jane Malcolm-Davies
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And at the Plastron Push: the historical development of fencing kit
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Verity Wilson
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Western modes and Asian clothing: reflections on borrowing other people's dress
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Back to Index
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2001 Costume No. 35
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Kimberly Chrisman
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The New Dresses: A Look at How Mantuamaking Became Established in Scotland
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Judith Milhous & R. T. C. Hume
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The Tailor's Shop at the Pantheon Opera 1790-1792
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Cally Blackman
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Walking Amazons: The Development of the Riding Habit in England during the Eighteenth Century
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Kenneth Cliff
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Mr Lock, Hatter to the Ladies 1783-1805
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Maureen Dillon
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Like a Glow worm who had lost its Glow: The Invention of the Incandescent Electric Lamp and
the Development of Artificial Silk and Electric Jewellery
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Rosie Howard
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The Uniform of the Boys of Christ's Hospital
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Gavin Waddell
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The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers: Its Impact on Post War British Fashion
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Back to Index
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2000 Costume No. 34
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Janet Arnold
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Janet Arnold: list of publications
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Janet Arnold
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Serpents and flowers: embroidery designs from
Thomas Trevelyon’s Miscellanies of 1608 and 1616
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Santina M Levey
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References to dress in the earliest account book of Bess of Hardwick
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Anne Buck
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Clothing and textiles in Bedfordshire inventories, 1617-1620
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Karen Hearn
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A fatal fertility? Elizabethan and Jacobean pregnancy portraits
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Joanna Marschne
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Mary II: her clothes and textiles
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Deborah E Kraak
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Variations on “plainness”: Quaker dress in eighteenth century Philadelphia
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Penelope Byrde & Ann Saunders
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The “Waterloo Ball” dresses at the Museum of Costume, Bath
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Kay Staniland
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Princess Charlotte’s wedding dress
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Geoffrey Squire
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E. W. Godwin and the House of Liberty
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Elizabeth Ann Coleman
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Myrbor and other mysteries: questions of art, authorship and émigrées
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Zillah Halls
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Mrs. Exeter – the rise and fall of the older woman
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Conversation at Castle Howard: Miss Annie Wilkinson interviewed by Miss Cecile Hummel during
the Costume Society’s visit to Castle Howard on 7 September 1968,transcribed by Janet Arnold
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Jenny Tiramani
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Janet Arnold and the Globe wardrobe: handmade clothes for Shakespeare’s actors
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Jackie Marshall
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Ward Mode and movement: text of a talk given at the Janet Arnold Memorial Day held at the
Victoria and Albert Museum, 24 April 1999
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Janine Odlevak
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The tailoring archive at London College of Fashion
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Back to Index
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1999 Costume No. 33
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Anthea Jarvis
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An agreeable change from ordinary medical diagnosis: the costume collection of Drs. C. Willett
and Phillis Cunnington
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Naomi E. A.Tarrant
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The real thing: the study of original garments
in Britain since 1947
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Beverley Lemire
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'In the hands of work women': English
markets, cheap clothing and female labour 1650 - 1800
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Rozemarijn Hoekstra
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Images of dress in the golden age of Dutch painting
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Patricia Allerston
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Reconstructing the second - hand clothes trade
in sixteenth and seventeenth century Venice
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Philip Sykas
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Calico catalogues: nineteenth century printed
dress fabrics from pattern books
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Maureen Alden
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The beguilement of Zeus - in all the better shops
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Jane E. Huggett
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Rural costume in Elizabethan Essex: a study based on the evidence from wills
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Flora Johnston
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Jonet Gothskirk and the 'gown of repentance'
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David Wilcox
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Cut and construction of a late eighteenth - century
coat
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Kenneth Cliff
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Mr. Lock, hatter to Admiral Lord Nelson
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Hugh Stanley
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Astle Wallis, The Queen's jester: a nineteenth
- century entertainer
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Ann Hardie
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A letter from Ellen Terry
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Shelley Tobin
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Paulise de Bush; the story of a collection
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Lorraine Williams & Helene Alexander
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Fans: a selective bibliography
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Back to Index
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1998 Costume No. 32
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Francina Irwin
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'Drawn mostly from nature': David Allan's record of daily dress in France and
Italy, 1770-76
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Lynn Sorge
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Eighteenth century stays: their origins and creators
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Alice Mackrell
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Dress in Le Style Troubadour
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Kimberley Chrisman
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Rose Bertin in London?
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Rachel Worth
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Elizabeth Gaskell, clothes and class identity
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Janet Maynard
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Respectability in dress in the novels of Hesba Stretton
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Rosalind K Marshall
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From teagowns to topees: the costume of Lady Flora Poore
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Anne Buck
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John Ruskin and dress, 1882
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Ann Wise
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Dressmakers in Worthing, 1920-1950
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Transcribed by Debbie Henderson
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A Hat-maker remembers: a conversation with John Reed-Crawford
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Avril Lansdell
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A presentation at Masque IV, the Costume Guild weekend, 1996
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Aileen Riberio
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Further list of titles of postgraduate reports written by the students of the History of Dress
Department at the Courtauld Institute of Art, from 1984 to 1997
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Heather Meiklejohn
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Dress in history: studies and approaches
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Back to Index
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1997 Costume No. 31
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Francoise Piponnier
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Purchases, gifts and legacies of liturgical vestments from written sources in the 14th and
15th centuries
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Maria Hayward
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The packing and transportation of the possessions of Henry VIII Patricia Wardle - 'Divers
necessaries for his Majesty's use and service': seamstresses to the Stuart Kings
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Joanna Marschner
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Queen Caroline of Ansbach: attitudes to clothes and cleanliness
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Elizabeth C. Sanderson
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Nearly new: The second-hand clothing trade in Eighteenth century Edinburgh
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Sacha Llewellyn
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Inventory of Her Grace's Things 1747 - The dress inventory of Mary Churchill, 2nd Duchess
of Montague
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Pamela A. Parmal
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Fashion and the growing importance of the Marchand des Modes
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Joy Spanabel Emery
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Development of the American commercial pattern industry: the first generation 1850-1880
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Anthea Jarvis
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British cotton couture: British fashion and the Cotton Board 1941-69
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Pat Poppy
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Fancy dress? costume for re-enactment
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Caroline Evans
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Street style
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Back to Index
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1996 Costume No.30
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Donald King
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Roman and Byzantine Dress in Egypt
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Norah Lambourne
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Designing for the York Cycle of Mystery Plays in 1951, 54 & 57
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Maria Hayward
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Luxury or Magnificence? Dress at the Court of Henry VIII
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Janet Arnold & Mary Westerman
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Bulgarella, An Innovative Method of Mounting the 16th Century Doublet & Trunk Hose worn
by Don Garzia de Medici
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June Swann
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Shoes Concealed in Buildings
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Clare Rose
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A Group of Embroidered 18th century Bedgowns
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Aileen Riberio
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In Search of Carlyle's Hat
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Linda M. Ballard
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Cashmere Carrying Cloaks
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Stephen Bucker
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Houses Built of Straw; The Influence of the Hat Trade in the Shaping of Luton
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Marian Nichols
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Straw Plaiting and the Straw Hat Industry in Britain
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Jill Draper
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The Development of the Luton Museum Lace Collection
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