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Costume: the journal of The Costume Society


Following the retirement in 2008 of Dr Ann Saunders (now Editor Emeritus) and former Assistant Editor, Dr Maria Hayward, there is a new editorial team for the Society’s journal.
Penelope Byrde and Verity Wilson are Joint Editors with Naomi Tarrant as Reviews Editor.
The new team’s complementary expertise and experience as curators, writers and lecturers ensure a wide network of contacts throughout the diverse world of dress and textile studies.
 
Costume - Aims and Scope:

It is a scholarly, refereed, academic publication presenting current research into historic and contemporary dress. The journal publishes articles that are primarily object-based, from a broad chronological period and with a worldwide remit.

Costume maintains a balance between practice and theory and concentrates on the social significance of dress. Articles are welcomed from established researchers and those new to the field.

The articles published in Costume are sent out for peer-review to ensure that they are of a high standard and make a contribution to dress history. The articles are accompanied by an extensive selection of book, exhibition and conference reviews, as well as listings of new books and articles published during the year, all of which seek to reflect the diverse range of material published about dress.
 
Editors:
PENELOPE BYRDE Independent historian and formerly Curator of the Museum of Costume and Fashion Research Centre, Bath, UK

VERITY WILSON Independent historian and formerly of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK
To contact the Editors email : Journal@CostumeSociety.org.uk

Reviews Editor:
NAOMI E A TARRANT, FSA, FSA Scot Independent historian and Honorary Curator of Costume and Textiles for the National Trust for Scotland, UK
To contact the Reviews Editor email : BookReviews@CostumeSociety.org.uk
Editor Emeritus

DR ANN SAUNDERS MBE, FSA Independent historian and former Editor of Costume (1967-2008)
 
If you are inspired by the articles in Costume then why not submit a paper.
The Editors welcome proposals for articles and reviews. See Instructions for Authors

Editions of Costume with list of titles

Issues of Costume are available online from Maney Publishing Ingentaconnect: Ingentaconnect

For information on obtaining back issues click here:Publications


43 | 42 | 41 | 40 | 39 | 38 | 37 | 36 | 35 | 34 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 30





Cover of  COSTUME No 43 2009Back to Index

    2009 COSTUME No 43
   
Penelope Byrde and Verity Wilson  Editorial
 Philip A. Sykas Fustians in Englishmen's Dress: From Cloth to Emblem 
 Eiluned Edwards  The Role of Veilcloths Among the Rabaris of Kutch, Gujarat, Western India
 Bridget Clarke Clothing the Family of an MP in the 1690s: An Analysis of the Day Book of Edward Clarke of Chipley, Somerset
Lee Clatworthy  The Quintessential Englishman? Henry Temple's Town and Country Dress
Miles Lambert   'Sent from Town': Commissioning Clothing in Britain During the Long Eighteenth Century
 Susan North Redfern Limited, 1892 to 1940
Julia Long  Portable Pets: Live and Apparently Live Animals in Fashion, 1880-1925
Anthea Jarvis  Reflections on the Development of the Study of Dress History and of Costume Curatorship: A Case Study of Anne Buck OBE
 Carly Eck Headlines Make Fashion: The Use of Newsprint Fabric and Newspaper Clippings in Fashion and Fancy Dress
 Lynn Downey Blue Denim by the Bay: The Levi Strauss & Co. Archives
James Snowden  New and Recent Books
 Rebecca Arnold Selective List of Articles from Periodicals
Obituary Mairead Dunlevy




Cover of  COSTUME No 42 2008Back to Index

    2008 COSTUME No 42
   
 Ann Saunders Editorial
 Anita Quye and Hugh Cheape Rediscovering the Arisaid
 Jane Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya Mikhaila And her black satin gown must be new-bodied': The Twenty-First-Century Body in Pursuit of the Holbein Look
 Johannes Pietsch The Burial Clothes of Margaretha Franziska de Lobkowitz, 1617
 Grace Evans Marriage a la Mode, An Eighteenth-Century Wedding Dress, Hat and Shoes Set from the Olive Matthews Collection, Chertsey Museum
 Dawn Chappell Sir William Heathcote's Livery
 Alexandra Kajdanska Fashionable Life in Eighteenth-Century Gdansk: The Drawings of Daniel Chodowiecki (1726-1801)
 Vesna Marija Potocic Matkovic, Ivo Soljacic and Zlatka Mencl Bajs The History of the Dress Code at the University of Zagreb — From Jesuit Talars to Newly Designed Academic Gowns
 Anna Marie Kirk Japonisme and Femininity: A Study of Japanese Dress in British and French Art and Society, c. 1860-c. 1899
 Samantha Vettese The Ballets Russes Connection with Fashion
 Susan North John Redfern and Sons, 1847-1892
 Elaine Webster New Zealand School Uniforms in the Era of Democracy: 1965 to 1975
 James Snowden and Rebecca Arnold New Books and Articles
Obituary Ella Bland


Cover of  COSTUME No 41 2007Back to Index
   2007 Costume No. 41
Ann Saunders Editorial
Janet Arnold The ‘pair of straight bodies’ and ‘a pair of drawers’ dating from 1603 which clothe the effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey.
Cliodna Devitt ‘To cap it all’: The Waterford Cap of Maintenance.
Jane A. Lawson Rainbow for a Reign: The Colours of a Queen’s Wardrobe.
Nigel Sleigh-Johnson The Merchant Taylors Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailors’ Guild or Company of Merchants?.
Harriet Waterhouse A Fashionable Confinement: Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman.
Lucy-Clare Windle ‘Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?’: Thomson’s Survival Strategy During the Decline of the Crinoline.
Anthea Jarvis The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple: Confirmation and First Communion Dress, 1850-2000.
Nigel Arch The Wearing of the Red: The Redcoat and the British Brand.
Anna Baruma ‘A Clinging Liberty Tea-Gown Instead of a Magenta Satin’: The Colour Red in Artistic Dress by Liberty & Co.
Rebecca Arnold Modern Fashions for Modern Women: The Evolution of New York Sportswear in the 1930s.
Rosemary Harden Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place.
James Snowden & Naomi A.E. Tarrant New Books and Articles.
Obituaries Barbara Allen.
Maureen Allen Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder.


Cover of  COSTUME No 40 2006 Back to Index
   2006 Costume No. 40
Ann Saunders Editorial
Susan North The Fusion of Fabric and Gem: The Costume Society Symposium 2005.
Robert Tittler Nelson Remembered: Reproductions of Historical Naval Uniform.
Ann Susan Saunders Provision of Apparel for the Poor in London 1630-80.
Edwina Ehrman Dressing Well in Old Age: the Clothing Accounts of Martha Dodson, 1746-1765.
Heather Toomer The de Saumarez Layette with a pattern by Elspeth Reed.
Deirdre Murphy ‘The Girls in Green’: Women’s Seaside Dress in England 1850-1900.
Valerie Cumming First Knight: Henry Irving 1838-1905.
Beverly Lemire Wool: Products and Markets from the 13th to 20th Century.
Judy Tregidden The Fashion Gallery, Snibston Discovery Park, Leicestershire.
James Snowden & Naomi E.A. Tarrant New Books and Articles


Back to Index

2005 Costume No. 39   
Ann Saunders Editorial: 40 Years On
Madeleine Ginsburg The Costume Society: The Early Days
Stella Mary Newton Edited by Jane Bridgeman London Haute Couture in the 1930s
Anna Ritchie Clothing among the Picts
Jenny Tiramani The Sanders Portrait
Kay Staniland Samuel Pepys and his Wardrobe
Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell Mourning and La Mode at the Court of Louis XVI
Suzanne Adams Purchasers from the Parsonage: Observations on Bath Dress and Reactive Shopping by the Penrose Family 1766-1767
Anne Mary Garry ‘After they went I worked’: Mrs Larpent and her Needlework, 1790-1780
Keren Protheroe Quality Stitch by Stitch: Clothing and Associated Publications Held in the Marks & Spencer Company Archive
Ann Rudge Travelling in Style
Sylvia Ayton 'A Love-Hate Relationship with Couture’


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2004 Costume No. 38   
Naomi Tarrant An outfit from the Berlin Carousel of 1750 at Paxton House, Bewickshire
  Cicero's new clothes: recreating and investigating dress and dress effects.
Elaine Webster
& Fiona Milne
Susan Mee The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
Robert Smith Runners and rituals in early Russia
Helen Persson Straw - the blonde goddess: the adaptation of a folk tradition to fashion
Deirdre Murphy 'Stylish yet perfectly modest' : womens bathing dress in England, 1850 -1900
Kate Strasdin 'An easy day for a lady...': the dress of early women mountaineers
Lucy Johnston She and ski: the development of women's ski outfits 1880- 1930
Catherine Horwood 'Anyone for Tennis?' male dress and decorum on the tennis courts of inter-war Britain
Anne Brogden Paddy's market
Harry Matthews The fashionable image: a celebration of the Harry Mathews Collection of prints and pocket books in the Museum of London
Alison Beazley Twenty-first century 'made-to-measure'
Colin McDowell The new art?


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2003 COSTUME No. 37   
Maureen Alden Ancient Greek dress
David Key Whythe bendys a-bove hyr harnys: an investigation into the Bend as a part of fifteenth century military clothing
Susan Mee The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
Nigel Sleigh-Johnsonh Aspects of the tailoring trade in the City of London in the late sixteenth and earlier seventeenth centuries
Pat Poppy Mary Ring: The clothing of an early American settler
Kay Staniland Samuel Pepys and his wardrobe
Jenny Lister Twenty-three samples of silks: silks worn by Queen Charlotte and the Princesses at Royal Birthday Balls 1791-1794
Gillian Lenfestey An Alderney wedding, 1779
Anne Brogden Clothing provision by Liverpool's other Poor Law Institutions: Kirkdale Industrial Schools
Jennifer Queree Sails, seals and sailcloth: the clothing of the Dundonald castaways
Kevin L Seligman Dressmakers patterns: the English commercial paper pattern industry, 1878-1950


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2002 COSTUME No. 36   
Maria Hayward The Sign of Some Degree?: the financial, social and sartorial, significance of male headwear at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI
Lisa Jefferson Gifts given and fees paid to Garter King of Arms at installation ceremonies of the Order of the Garter in the sixteenth century
Ian Chipperfield Timothy Fellows's roquelaure
Ann Susan Saunders A Bedlam gown
Anne Brogden Clothing provision in the Liverpool Warehouse
Myrtle Campbell Embroidered Bodices: an East Indian connection?
Leigh Summers Yes They Did Wear Them: working class women and corsetry in the nineteenth century
Aagot Noss Norwegian folk-dress as seen by the artists
Penelope Woolfitt Cutting the exotic: a study of some Asian trousers
Tim Dawson A tunic from Eastern Anatolia
Jane Malcolm-Davies And at the Plastron Push: the historical development of fencing kit
Verity Wilson Western modes and Asian clothing: reflections on borrowing other people's dress


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2001 Costume No. 35  
Kimberly Chrisman The New Dresses: A Look at How Mantuamaking Became Established in Scotland
Judith Milhous & R. T. C. Hume The Tailor's Shop at the Pantheon Opera 1790-1792
Cally Blackman Walking Amazons: The Development of the Riding Habit in England during the Eighteenth Century
Kenneth Cliff Mr Lock, Hatter to the Ladies 1783-1805
Maureen Dillon Like a Glow worm who had lost its Glow: The Invention of the Incandescent Electric Lamp and the Development of Artificial Silk and Electric Jewellery
Rosie Howard The Uniform of the Boys of Christ's Hospital
Gavin Waddell The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers: Its Impact on Post War British Fashion


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2000 Costume No. 34        
Janet Arnold   Janet Arnold: list of publications
Janet Arnold   Serpents and flowers: embroidery designs from Thomas Trevelyon’s Miscellanies of 1608 and 1616
Santina M Levey   References to dress in the earliest account book of Bess of Hardwick
Anne Buck   Clothing and textiles in Bedfordshire inventories, 1617-1620
Karen Hearn   A fatal fertility? Elizabethan and Jacobean pregnancy portraits
Joanna Marschne   Mary II: her clothes and textiles
Deborah E Kraak  Variations on “plainness”: Quaker dress in eighteenth century Philadelphia
Penelope Byrde & Ann Saunders   The “Waterloo Ball” dresses at the Museum of Costume, Bath
Kay Staniland   Princess Charlotte’s wedding dress
Geoffrey Squire   E. W. Godwin and the House of Liberty
Elizabeth Ann Coleman   Myrbor and other mysteries: questions of art, authorship and émigrées
Zillah Halls   Mrs. Exeter – the rise and fall of the older woman
  Conversation at Castle Howard: Miss Annie Wilkinson interviewed by Miss Cecile Hummel during the Costume Society’s visit to Castle Howard on 7 September 1968,transcribed by Janet Arnold 
Jenny Tiramani   Janet Arnold and the Globe wardrobe: handmade clothes for Shakespeare’s actors
Jackie Marshall   Ward Mode and movement: text of a talk given at the Janet Arnold Memorial Day held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 24 April 1999
Janine Odlevak   The tailoring archive at London College of Fashion 


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 1999 Costume No. 33   
Anthea Jarvis  An agreeable change from ordinary medical diagnosis: the costume collection of Drs. C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington
Naomi E. A.Tarrant   The real thing: the study of original garments in Britain since 1947
Beverley Lemire   'In the hands of work women': English markets, cheap clothing and female labour 1650 - 1800
Rozemarijn Hoekstra   Images of dress in the golden age of Dutch painting
Patricia Allerston   Reconstructing the second - hand clothes trade in sixteenth and seventeenth century Venice
Philip Sykas   Calico catalogues: nineteenth century printed dress fabrics from pattern books
Maureen Alden The beguilement of Zeus - in all the better shops 
Jane E. Huggett Rural costume in Elizabethan Essex: a study based on the evidence from wills
Flora Johnston   Jonet Gothskirk and the 'gown of repentance'
David Wilcox   Cut and construction of a late eighteenth - century coat
Kenneth Cliff   Mr. Lock, hatter to Admiral Lord Nelson
Hugh Stanley   Astle Wallis, The Queen's jester: a nineteenth - century entertainer
Ann Hardie   A letter from Ellen Terry
Shelley Tobin   Paulise de Bush; the story of a collection
Lorraine Williams & Helene Alexander   Fans: a selective bibliography 


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1998 Costume No. 32   
Francina Irwin 'Drawn mostly from nature': David Allan's record of daily dress in France and Italy, 1770-76
Lynn Sorge Eighteenth century stays: their origins and creators
Alice Mackrell Dress in Le Style Troubadour
Kimberley Chrisman Rose Bertin in London?
Rachel Worth Elizabeth Gaskell, clothes and class identity
Janet Maynard Respectability in dress in the novels of Hesba Stretton
Rosalind K Marshall From teagowns to topees: the costume of Lady Flora Poore
Anne Buck John Ruskin and dress, 1882
Ann Wise Dressmakers in Worthing, 1920-1950
Transcribed by Debbie Henderson A Hat-maker remembers: a conversation with John Reed-Crawford 
Avril Lansdell A presentation at Masque IV, the Costume Guild weekend, 1996
Aileen Riberio Further list of titles of postgraduate reports written by the students of the History of Dress Department at the Courtauld Institute of Art, from 1984 to 1997
Heather Meiklejohn Dress in history: studies and approaches 


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1997 Costume No. 31   
Francoise Piponnier Purchases, gifts and legacies of liturgical vestments from written sources in the 14th and 15th centuries
Maria Hayward The packing and transportation of the possessions of Henry VIII Patricia Wardle - 'Divers necessaries for his Majesty's use and service': seamstresses to the Stuart Kings
Joanna Marschner Queen Caroline of Ansbach: attitudes to clothes and cleanliness
Elizabeth C. Sanderson Nearly new: The second-hand clothing trade in Eighteenth century Edinburgh
Sacha Llewellyn Inventory of Her Grace's Things 1747 - The dress inventory of Mary Churchill, 2nd Duchess of Montague
Pamela A. Parmal Fashion and the growing importance of the Marchand des Modes
Joy Spanabel Emery Development of the American commercial pattern industry: the first generation 1850-1880
Anthea Jarvis British cotton couture: British fashion and the Cotton Board 1941-69
Pat Poppy Fancy dress? costume for re-enactment
Caroline Evans Street style 


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1996 Costume No.30    
Donald King Roman and Byzantine Dress in Egypt
Norah Lambourne Designing for the York Cycle of Mystery Plays in 1951, 54 & 57
Maria Hayward Luxury or Magnificence? Dress at the Court of Henry VIII
Janet Arnold & Mary Westerman Bulgarella, An Innovative Method of Mounting the 16th Century Doublet & Trunk Hose worn by Don Garzia de Medici
June Swann Shoes Concealed in Buildings
Clare Rose A Group of Embroidered 18th century Bedgowns
Aileen Riberio In Search of Carlyle's Hat
Linda M. Ballard Cashmere Carrying Cloaks
Stephen Bucker Houses Built of Straw; The Influence of the Hat Trade in the Shaping of Luton
Marian Nichols Straw Plaiting and the Straw Hat Industry in Britain
Jill Draper The Development of the Luton Museum Lace Collection